Uruguay: Out of the Past’s Shadow

From Southern Tatler Issue No. 34

After years under a brutal military dictatorship, Uruguay is finally enjoying its place in the sun .

The seductive allure of Uruguay is that it is paradise hiding in plain sight.

            Neither as big as Brazil, its neighbor to the north, nor as busy as Argentina directly south across the Rio de la Plata, Uruguay has thrived in its semi-obscurity, an elusive feat for a wholeheartedly modern country. From its capital city of Montevideo to the lush grasslands and plains of the northern interior, the country is rich in history and full of adventure waiting to be discovered.

            In more ways than one, this country’s reemergence on the world’s stage mirrors that of its former president, Jose “Pepe” Mujica. A political prisoner during the country’s military dictatorship, Mujica is the subject of a 2019 documentary, “El Pepe: A Supreme Life,” as well as the dramatized biopic “A Twelve-Year Night.”

            Celebrated for his simple, agrarian lifestyle and donations to charitable causes, Mujica is of a generation that remembers Uruguay’s lost heyday in the first half of the 20th century, as well as the crushing shadow of authoritarianism that pulled a curtain between it and the rest of the world. 

            “I’ve always said that if Uruguay were a big country, the world would probably say that social democracy was invented in Uruguay,” Mujica says in “El Pepe.” “That defined our whole history and our whole nature. That’s why, until 1950, we were considered an anomaly in America. We were called the Switzerland of America. After 1950, reality proved that we were truly Latin Americans.”

            Like Mujica, Uruguay’s memory from that “deep solitude” influences much of the current atmosphere. Traditions and cultures borrowed from the rest of Latin America today have a new, localized spirit and a country defined so long by the outside world has firmly established its own distinct personality.

            Today, the country today has a large and growing middle class buoyed by vibrant social programs and a booming economy. The country’s legalization of marijuana has further contributed to its economic development, as well endeared it to visiting tourists. For so many years in darkness, the light finally is shining in Uruguay.

            “We owe much to those years in solitude,” says Mujica.

Montevideo

There is no better place in Uruguay to view the country’s transformative changes than Montevideo, its oldest, largest and most important city. A dense forest of colonial architecture, sparkling modern high-rises and beautiful outdoor parks, set against the sweeping coast of the Rio de la Plata, Montevideo has been called the safest city in South America, a far cry from the time when urban guerrillas and fascist police forces waged war in the streets.

            Founded by the Spanish in the 17th century as a military stronghold to protect its immense cattle lands to the north, today, as the nation’s biggest shipping port, it exports tons of agricultural products around the world.

            A great place to sample these products firsthand is Mercado del Puerto, a former wrought-iron train station turned market that offers a near-limitless assortment of meat and seafood. Anthony Bourdain, while visiting here to shoot an episode of “Parts Unknown,” was enamored with the parrilla, an enormous wood-fired grilled that cooks a mélange of steaks, chicken breasts, sausages and more at the same time. The term parilla has come to represent not only the grill but the meal as well.

            Not far from the mercado is Teatro Solìs in Montevideo’s old district of Ciudad Vieja. The entire neighborhood is full of old colonial-era mansions and arcades that have been transformed into museums, theaters, shops and restaurants without losing any of their imperial splendor, but Teatro Solis stands apart for both the opulence of its design and its significance in Uruguay’s cultural history. Hosting performances for over 150 years, the theater underwent a massive renovation in the late 1990s to make it one of the world’s premiere theaters.

            Like all Latin American countries, Carnival is an enormous tradition in Uruguay, full of brightly colored costumes, fabulous parades and music in the streets of all kinds. At Museo del Carnaval, the holiday is brought to life through lively exhibits and one-of-a-kind displays of artifacts through the ages.  

            Montevideo is good for more than education, though. Pocitos, the city’s best-known beach neighborhood, is a long strip of meandering golden sands that slip off into shaded streets full of walkable restaurants and bars. 

            If you’re looking for a little excitement, no sport is more beloved in South America than fùtbol, and Uruguay is no exception. Estadio Centenario was built for the first-ever World Cup in 1930 and is still Montevideo’s biggest stadium, holding more than 60,000 passionate fans and a built-in museum detailing the country’s long and rich football history. The stadium holds massive historical significance for the rest of the continent as well; in the final match of the 1930 World Cup, Uruguay defeated rival Argentina 4-2, crowning them the first true sports dynasty of South America. The national team still plays matches here, as do the club teams Peñarol and Nacional, with tickets are available throughout the year.  

Uruguay Profundo

“Deep Uruguay,” as it is known, encompasses the wide swath of grasslands to the north of the more populous grasslands and makes up the biggest part of the country. Home to endless miles of cattle pastures and open grasslands striped by rivers, the land is not for the faint of heart; far removed from the modern amenities of Montevideo and Punte del Este, the region epitomizes the term “off the beaten path.” 

            For many looking to experience the rustic gaucho life of South American cowboys, one of the many ranches called estancias that dot the countryside offer a relaxing — if rugged — getaway far from the bustle of the city.

            San Pedro de Timote Hotel and Camp is one of Uruguay’s oldest and most important haciendas, a true colonial-style villa remade as an inland resort where guests can recline beside one of several pools, ride horses through wide open acreage and experience a side of Uruguay unchanged for centuries.

            Closer to the beach, Estancia Vik combines gaucho authenticity with luxurious modern splendor to create a truly one-of-a-kind South American experience. Limited to only 12 guest suites and surrounded by 4,000 acres of beachfront property, the property is known as much for its eclectic collection of modern art as its affluent seclusion.

Salto del Penitente

Directly north of Punta del Este is Salto del Penitente, one of Uruguay’s only mountainous areas and a preeminent destination for extreme sports and outdoor activities. Spanish for “Penitent’s Waterfall,” everywhere as far as the eye allows, rocky hills speckle the grassy horizon. One can lose a sense of time in this place, a temperate garden wedged between remnants of the extinct volcanoes that once scorched the earth.

            Located in the Lavalleja department of Uruguay, Salto del Penitente Park is the administrative domain of the waterfall. The surrounding area offers rock climbing and rappelling routes ranging from 13 to 30 meters high, zip line routes, hiking and biking trails and even horseback riding. For visitors looking for a more picturesque, relaxing way to take in the scenery, the waterfall’s winding curve is full of fresh-water pools perfecting for swimming or relaxing in.

            To slake adventure-induced appetites, the park has its own restaurant that serves dishes directly produced from the surrounding area. The menu includes homemade pasta, dulce de leche and dishes comprised of wild boar, lamb and fish fresh from the river. The park also has six barbecue areas throughout the park and eucalyptus logs available for purchase. At night, guests can choose to stay either in one of the park’s many campgrounds or one of their two enormous communal shelters.

Punta del Este

Though Montevideo is replete with things to do, outside the city is where Uruguay’s magic truly begins. Among the most famous getaways is the chic beach town of Punta del Este, a coastal city referred to on occasion as both “the Monaco of the South” and “The Hamptons of the Latin Americas” for its popularity with wealthy guests, bohemian travelers and celebrities alike. Known for fabulous art museums, world-class cuisine, boutique fashion stores and outdoor markets, the beachside city is among the few places in Uruguay where the shadow of totalitarianism did not eclipse its shine.

            In the sands of Punta del Este beach is “The Hand,” Mario Irarràzabal’s sculpture of fingers emerging from the shore that has become iconic around the world as “the Fingers of Punta del Este” and is popular for taking photographs.

            In nearby Punta Ballena, only a few miles west from Punta del Este, Uruguayan artist Carlos Pàez Vilarò’s famous summer home-turned-hotel Casapueblo. Not only can guests explore the artist’s work and studio in the museum, but they can even stay in one of the hotel’s 68 rooms with unparalleled views of the Atlantic.

            For guests looking to live a little closer to the land, there are the rustic, one-of-a-kind geodesic domes of Big Bang Uruguay, a retreat-style enclave nestled in one of Punta de Este’s coastal eucalyptus forests. Guests can enjoy all the comforts of a luxury hotel, with stylish living quarters, full bathrooms, a wood stove and an upstairs mezzanine. The small community of domes share a common area with bars and lounges overlooks the beach.

            Among the preeminent beach towns of this beach-friendly country is La Barra, one of the trendiest, cosmopolitan neighborhoods favored by surfers and bikini models alike. After a stay in this rich, resurgent country, full of liberated life and cultural warmth, it is one of the best places on earth to take in the sunset.